Subaru Vanagon Coolant Plumbing
Material Choices
01/05/2005

Here're the methods of plumbing that I remember seeing implemented....

Build Your Own - Bellowsflex Marine Exhaust
	Pros:	Very simple install, 
		durable/long lasting
	Cons:	Must splice to introduce bleed point.
		Fairly Pricey - $$
		Can be difficult to make tight corners.
	Cost:	About $9 per foot, (plus band clamps)
	info:	http://www.go2marine.com/g2m/action/GoBPage/id/93817F/7910_bellowsflex_b_coolant_marine_fuel_thermoid.html
	pics:	see pics at SubaruVanagon > Files > Cooling System and Plumbing > Plumbing using Marine exhaust hose 


Build Your Own - Copper Tubing
	Pros:	Fairly Inexpensive - $ 
		Medium simple installation, 
		Can be painted to look nice, 
		Soldering and brazing are simple with inexpensive tools. 
		Parts and Pipe readily available at local hardware stores.
	Cons:	Requires pipe fitting expertise to get proper layout, 
		Soldered joints may become brittle and leak over time.
	Cost:	I couldn't remember how much copper cost but it must be around 3-4 bucks a foot plus fittings (clamps, hose, etc.)
	pics:	see pics at SubaruVanagon > Files > Cooling System and Plumbing > misc sections
	
	Note:	This is by far the most prevalent method used by subaruvanagon users, at least those that are talking about this type of thing.
	


Build Your Own - Stainless Tubing
	Pros:	It can be very pretty when polished
		Durable
		Strong
	Cons:	Pretty Pricey - $$$ due to cost of material and cost to bend/weld
		Difficult to weld
		Requires pipe fitting expertise to get proper layout.
	Cost:	About $8-9 per foot plus fittings plus welding
	
	
Build Your Own - Aluminum Tubing
	Pros:	It can be very pretty when polished
		Lightweight
		Durable
	Cons:	Pretty Pricey - $$$ due to cost of material and cost to bend/weld
		Difficult to weld
		Requires pipe fitting expertise to get proper layout.
	Cost:	About $9-10 per foot / plus welding (or bends) / plus fittings (clamps, hose, etc.)
	

PreFabbed - H&R Stainless Return Line
	Pros:	A thing of beauty (looks bitchen when polished)
		Simple installation
		Has lips for good hose purchase
		Durable
		Strong
		Warrantied by H&R
	Cons:	Pretty Pricey - $$$
		Still have to buy rubber hose to connect ends to thermostat and vanagon return line
	Cost:	About $100 at time of writing (plus 4 large band clamps and rubber hose bits to connect each end.
			
PreFabbed - SmallCar Return Line(s)
	Pros:	VERY Simple installation
		Has lips for good hose purchase
		Durable
		Strong
		Warrantied by SmallCar
		Comes complete and ready to install on a non-reversed coolant manifold
			you get 4 hoses, clamps, two metal feed/return lines w bleed outlets
	Cons:	Pretty Pricey - $$$
		Still have to buy rubber hose to connect ends to thermostat and vanagon return line
	Cost:	About $200+ at time of writing 
			
			
NOTE:  Bear in mind that the amount of pipe that you need to plumb a conversion is based on another decision you have to make before you even decide what kind of materials you want to use.  That is, whether or not to reverse the coolant manifold.  The subaru engine has an aluminum coolant manifold, secured by four bolts, attached directly to the top of the subaru block.  This manifold feeds coolant water coming from the engine out to the vehicle heater and to the radiator.  If left stock, the coolant manifold radiator return line (the large one), will exit the engine pointing to about 7 o'clock (pretend the suby engine is a clock, you're looking down at it from the top, and 12 o'clock is where the transmission sits) near the left rear of the vanagon. The vanagon radiator return line (where you need to plug into) is located behind the "firewall" just forward of the right rear axle (up at about 2:30).  So, in order to connect these two points, you have to run your coolant piping all the way around the engine bay.  Not a huge deal, just not as tidy and more pipe means more potential for future leaks.
About ten years ago, a fellow from South Africa (that's where the guy I talked to heard it from anyway) stumbled on the fact that the subaru coolant manifold could be bolted back on to the block backwards.  Now to me this would be immediately obvious because I typically bolt everything on backwards at least once before doing it right.  But this guy was doing it on purpose.
This meant that the radiator return line is pointing in the right direction (about 2 oclock) to mate with it's vanagon counterpart return line.  But....the neck of the coolant manifold collides with the bell housing of the subaru engine, preventing you from just spinning and bolting.  So, you have to cut off and shorten the neck of the coolant manifold and either weld the aluminum neck back on at an angle which prevents collision, or leave it shortened and fashion the neck end in such a way that allows the hose that you clamp on to have purchase.
Most folks go with the weld job because it gets the clamps out in the open from under the intake manifold where they're easier to get at later.
The aluminum weld, if you can't do it yourself, will cost about $30 based on the strength of your relationship with the welder person.  Just make sure they pressure test the weld, you don't want leaks.

So to summarize, if you reverse your coolant manifold, you save yourself from having to plumb an additional 6 or so feet of hose, pipe, or whatever it is you are using to carry the coolant.