Subaru Head Gasket & Clutch Replacement Continued

Repair Notes:

Ok. Let's get started. First, you must find a suitable workplace. For me, this mean a covered rear patio, with a concrete slab. You must also find a way to remove the engine. I chose to use a chain hoist, so I built a frame from studs to hold the engine.
Get the car situated where you want it. When using a hoist, you can only raise and lower the engine, so this required the space to push the car out of the way once the engine was lifted out of the car. Start soaking the bolts on the exhaust manifold (I did this once a day in the days leading up to the teardown) with a penetrating oil to ease removal. I strongly recommend PB Blaster. From the way the can looks, it seems like it is a gimmick, but I've had great results with it.
Label everything that gets disconnected. It will make the task of reconnecting everything much simpler. I used numbers on Avery tags, and labeled each end that was disconnected. Before you start removing the engine-transmission mounting bolts, start to think about removing the crank pulley bolt. Since this is a manual transmission vehicle, you can use that to your advantage (automatic transmission people are on your own for this!). Place the car in 5th gear and have someone step on the brake. Use the proper 1/2" drive socket and a long breaker bar (24") to loosen the bolt - I had to use an additional piece of pipe to break it loose.

Follow the procedures in the shop manual for removing the engine. It is very through and includes everything that must be disconnected. Then check to make sure that the engine is clear. In my case, I had to disconnect a block heater (this was added after the factory). The shop manual will tell you the proper time to apply tension to the hoist. When breaking the exhaust manifold bolts loose, use lots of penetrating oil, and make sure you use a 6-point socket. The 12-point sockets have a tendency to round the nuts. In my case, 2 of the studs pulled out, so I ordered replacements. It is not necessary to discharge and disconnect the A/C compressor. There is enough flex in the hoses that it can be pulled and tied off to the side, like the power steering pump. After removing the radiator, cover the condensor with a piece of plywood to prevent accidentially puncturing it or bending fins.

Separate engine from transmission (not as easy as it may sound!). Because both the block and transmission housing are aluminum, you have to be careful to not pry between any of the mating surfaces. My neighbor was helping me (try) to remove the engine. We tried everything for about an hour, including him standing on the intake manifold and rocking the engine back and forth. It barely cracked loose, but there was no way to pull it apart, and there are no places to pry the two apart. It seemed there was some corrosion on the alignment pins, and it was causing the two to stick. He had to get back to work, so we sprayed penetrating oil (again, PB Blaster - it is excellent). After letting that soak for a few hours, I tried wiggling the engine to no avail. Out of desperation, I tried hitting the bell housing with the butt end of a breaker bar - and the engine and transmission started separating. Switching to a hammer, I was slowly able to open it up to where I could safely pry the two apart. I then had no trouble removing the engine by myself - it was quite easy to manage.
Raise the engine high enough to clear the front of the car, then push the car out of the way. Lower the engine and place on a suitable stand. I used the base from a miter saw I had purchased a few years ago. I made a small wood frame to go around the oil pan, and then strapped the engine to the table (it was a bit front heavy).

Before beginning any major disassembly, it is important to check the valve clearances. Remove the timing belt cover and reinstall the crankshaft pulley and bolt to allow you to rotate the engine. Measure the current valve clearances according to the procedure and make a note of them. Later you'll measure the shims and calculate the new shims needed. After 72,000 miles, one of my exhaust valves was as tight as 0.005" (spec is 0.010"). To loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts, place an adjustable wrench over the hexagonal portion of the camshaft, then use a socket and breaker bar to loosen the bolt. For those replacing the head gaskets in-car, you could use a crowfoot wrench on a breaker bar (that would allow you work at a right angle). It should take a 25 or 26mm crowfoot.

Remove the intake manifold and set it aside. It is a good idea to plug the intake ports and throttle body with paper towels to help avoid dropping anything into them. When removing the EGR pipe between the intake manifold to the block use a flare wrench to avoid rounding the nut.